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    Southeast Asia
     Feb 25, 2005
On the right track in Bangkok
By Gary LaMoshi

BANGKOK - Bangkok's Skytrain has transformed life in the Thai capital. Opened for business in late 1999 and built completely with private money, Skytrain reintroduced fast, efficient transportation to a city choking on auto traffic. Commuters, students, tourists, trendsetters, and even Thai royal family members ride Skytrain's sleek rails.

Skytrain's parent company, the Bangkok Mass Transit System (known as BTS), claims an operating profit for the past three years and may list on the Stock Exchange of Thailand this year. However, BTS remains hamstrung by an estimated 39 billion baht (US$1 billion) debt from construction of the system, deepened by its first two unprofitable years, and needs restructuring in order to attract new investment for system expansion.

Chief operating officer Paul Anderson, an Australian with 20 years' experience in Asian urban rail, believes that BTS illustrates how privately owned transit systems and similar major infrastructure projects can succeed, and highlights mistakes to avoid. As governments in Asia and around the globe turn increasingly to private investors to build and operate new infrastructure projects and to privatize existing public services, the BTS story shows what works and what doesn't.

Sans sanouk
By the 1990s, Bangkok was as renowned for its traffic as its temples. On my first visit in 1992, my taxi took 20 minutes to go around a block to cross Sukhumvit Road, a major thoroughfare. I found getting around so trying - due to the traffic, the indecipherable bus system, and the need to negotiate fares with drivers (metered taxis weren't common until 1994) - that I walked, no solution given Bangkok's heat and pollution. More importantly, despite the city's sights and spirit imbued with the Thai core value of sanouk (having fun), I didn't ever want to come back.

But I did return, and over the past five years Skytrain has changed everything. I now visit Bangkok annually and use the Skytrain - with 23.5 kilometers of track and 23 stations - for errands, sightseeing and meeting friends. I'm not alone. Tourist stays in Bangkok have lengthened from an average of two days to three since the advent of Skytrain. Anderson says, "Much of that is attributable to BTS restoring mobility to tourists." Longer visits translate into hundreds of millions of dollars in added revenue for the city's hotels, retailers, restaurants and tax collectors.

Skytrain has also transformed Bangkok's cityscape. Development patterns have followed the train line, with more than 150 projects covering over 50,000 square meters along Skytrain's L-shaped main line connecting downtown to residential areas in northwest and southeastern Bangkok, and its southern and western spur. In addition to downtown commercial developments - Bangkok has more, bigger malls than any city I know - outlying areas along the Skytrain such as Thong Lo on eastern Sukhumvit Road have become desirable areas for what Anderson terms "yuppies", adding chic restaurants and Internet bars (not cafes, bars) catering to them.

Most importantly, Skytrain has taken commuters off the roads. Skytrain logs 380,000 trips daily, showing an annual growth of 50,000 trips per day in recent years. With the new MRT (mass rail transit) subway system opened last July, mass transit rail accounts for more than 500,000 trips daily, trips that keep cars off Bangkok's roads. When the subway shut down for two weeks due to an accident in January, city officials reported daily downtown traffic counts rose by 100,000.

It's no secret why people choose trains. "Mobility is five kilometers per hour at rush hour on the surface, 35 kilometers per hour on our system," Anderson says. But he emphasizes that profitable urban rail entails more than just keeping the trains running on time.

Branded
"We try to give people a feeling that riding the train is part of city life, not just getting from A to B," Anderson explains. "Our strategy was to create the excitement of the city in the system as part of our brand image." Yes, even a mass transit system needs a brand image. Skytrain's brand image extends far beyond a jazzy logo, cool tickets, and hip advertisements in the trains.

Customer service and safety are keys. "From overseas, we've seen that mass transit systems have a reputation of not being safe," Anderson says. "Maybe we've overreacted, but I don't think so." Security personnel are posted on each platform, in part to deter riders from the countryside from crossing the tracks as they would at a railroad station back home. Guards are also trained in customer service tasks, such as giving directions. The system has carried passengers on more than 424 million trips covering 18 million kilometers (around the earth 475 times) without an accident. Anderson adds this challenge: "If you can find a piece of litter on BTS, let me know."

Because the system is user friendly, efficient and fares are reasonable (10-40 baht), 30% of Skytrain rides are what Anderson calls "new trips", discretionary travel. Relief from concerns about traffic and parking encourages residents to venture out for entertainment or shopping.

Tourist trade
With an average of more than 15,000 foreigners arriving daily at Don Muang International Airport, tourists are a significant segment of the Bangkok market, and Anderson makes sure BTS gets its share. "I personally meet hotel managements regularly as part of developing products to suit hotels' needs." Those products include customized Skytrain tickets for hotels to offer guests. BTS worked with a boat company to create a special tourist service along the Chao Phraya river to reach Bangkok's riverside temples and museums in the old royal quarter that neither train system penetrates. Skytrain delivers visitors to the pier.

All Skytrain and subway station signs and maps are in English along with Thai. Route maps also feature English, and guide books distributed with the system's three-day pass, are available in English and Japanese. "We haven't done Chinese," Anderson explains, because Chinese-language guidebooks and other publications already include comprehensive Skytrain information.

BTS has embraced the new subway system as a partner, not a rival, expecting the added rail reach to boost Skytrain traffic as more commuters leave their cars at home. Unlike Kuala Lumpur, where the subway (Bangkok's twin, right down to the gray marble walls of train platforms) and elevated monorail have no interchanges, Bangkok's system includes three transfer points where riders can switch directly between the underground and elevated systems. Common ticketing is under study to bring the systems closer together.

Numbers crunch
A privately held company, BTS doesn't publish accounts, but Anderson boasts that its operating profits last year exceeded 50%, including revenues from fares, advertising and rental of retail space in stations. Back-of-the-envelope calculations suggest a profit of more than 1 billion baht. Investors will get full details of its finances if BTS carries out its plan for a stock listing.

But these glory days and a bright future can't cover the overhang from debt accumulated when building the system and the first year's daily traffic of 100,000, 60% below initial estimates, insufficient to cover operating costs. Assuming BTS borrowed at 6% (a bargain rate back in the mid-1990s when SkyTrain construction began), annual debt service alone on $1 billion amounts to $60 million, more than double the profit estimate. So BTS is now working with an international consortium of banks to restructure the debt. Anderson says they're close to a deal, but won't say more.

The BTS story holds key lessons for cities such as Jakarta that are considering rail lines. Key considerations, as Anderson outlines:
  • Build a system that's the right size and scale. Don't overbuild, but give the system room to grow.
  • Choose the right routes, in cooperation with city authorities, the rail developer and other key players.
  • Go elevated. Underground systems cost two to three times as much to build and two to three times as much to operate because of higher air conditioning, lighting, security and safety costs. Skytrain's tracks are clean, elegant concrete structures, nothing like the "Victorian construction" of elevated systems in New York or Chicago.

    Most important, get the right mix of public and private financing, as opposed to BTS's 100% private financing. "The general thinking is that infrastructure should be the government's responsibility, and the operator handles the rail system," Anderson says. Under that model, the government would pay for the elevated structure while private money would buy the rails, cars and station equipment. Public money leverages private investment and entrepreneurship.

    The government is listening. Just after Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra's Thai Rak Thai was re-elected early this month, the government announced plans to reverse policy and invest 521 billion baht to expand Bangkok's rail lines and express bus services. That pledge fulfilled a campaign promise to tackle Bangkok's traffic problems that helped Thai Rak Thai win 35 of 37 parliamentary seats in the capital, usually an opposition stronghold. These mass transit improvements will save an estimated 102 billion baht a year in transportation and energy costs.

    Gary LaMoshi has worked as a broadcast producer and print writer and editor in the US and Asia. Longtime editor of investor rights advocate eRaider.com, he's also a contributor to Slate and Salon.com.

    (Copyright 2005 Asia Times Online Ltd. All rights reserved. Please contact us for information on sales, syndication and republishing.)

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