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Thai Royal Barges a rare APEC treat
By Julio A Jeldres

Since early September, an extraordinary spectacle has taken place on Bangkok's Chao Phraya River, driving hundreds if not thousands of spectators to the river's banks. Rehearsals of an ancient Royal Barge procession have stopped traffic in the river, but brought much color to Bangkok's sky in preparation for a royal procession due this Monday evening for the visiting heads of state of the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) countries.

This is a rare honor granted to the visiting leaders, as the Royal Barges only appear on procession for the most special royal ceremonies, and to commemorate special events, such as the 25th century celebration of the Buddhist Era in May 1957, Bangkok's bicentennial celebration in April 1982, and then in October 1987 to celebrate the 60th birthday anniversary (Fifth Cycle) of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej of Thailand.

The last time the Royal Barges were seen on procession was in 1999, on the occasion of King Bhumibol's 72nd birthday anniversary.

Scholars are divided on the origin of the barges. Some argue that they are of Khmer origin, as in the stone engravings of Angkor Wat, carved in the mid-12th century, barges are found depicting the same mythological animals that are used in the current barges, such as hamsa (sacred goose), naga (a water serpent), and dragon heads, probably intended to make the boats beautiful.

Others suggest that Indian settlers brought to Thailand the tradition of processions in which officials showed emblems that represented their rank. This influenced the Thai administration of the Ayutthaya period, as most government departments' emblems were those depicting mythological animals.

The Royal Barges, said to be the last of their kind, produce a spectacular pageant when on procession. The earliest historical evidence concerning royal barges dates from the Sukhothai period of Thai history, which mentions briefly some names of royal vessels participating in certain waterborne state ceremonies performed by the Sukhothai monarchs.

During that time, all barges were given names such as "Rua Prathinang Praphat Saeng Chan" (the Royal Barge for Appreciation of the Moonlight), "Rua Prathinang Chai Chalerm Tharanin" (Royal Barge of Victory over the Land); and "Rua Prathinang Chai Sinthuphiman" (Royal Barge of Victory over the Celestial River).

After Sukhothai was abandoned and Ayutthaya became the capital (1350-1767) the barges were mostly used as warships, taking the leading role in waterborne battles against the enemy. In 1684, King Narai the Great welcomed Chevalier de Chaumont, the ambassador of the French King Louis XIV, with a Royal Barge procession.

During the war that brought about the fall of Ayutthaya in 1767, the Royal Barges were lost along with other treasures and records of the kingdom. When King Chulalok (Rama I) ascended the throne in 1782 to become the first king of the current Chakri dynasty, he considered the renewal of national arts and crafts and maintenance of tradition a priority. This included the construction of new Royal Barges.

In the Dynastic Chronicles of the Fourth Reign (1851-68) there is an account of King Mongkut's (Rama IV) "Royal Tour of Bangkok by water", which followed the traditional land tour of the monarchs. It is written that the king, seeing many royal and other barges kept but never used, felt that a royal procession by boat would get him closer to his subjects.

The Royal procession is accompanied by chanting of Sanskrit origin. There are four chants, sung at different times. The first, when the barge begins to move, is called kroeun hay, and the verse says that the beautiful barge is ready to move. The second chant is known as chalawa-hay; it is slow in tempo and is chanted when the barge is moving gradually away from the pier and the oarsmen are still rowing slowly. The third chant is considered to be the most fun by Thais. It is called moonla-hay and describes the magnificence of the procession of barges. It is said that the oarsmen have a really good time because they get into the rhythm of the chant. During this time the barge picks up speed.

The last chant is about merit-making and is sung as the barges arrive at their destination. The old traditions required the chanter to be on the king's barge, seated in front of the monarch with his hands in the praying position, intoning verses to him in a quiet, soothing voice. But that part of the ancient tradition has been scrapped and the chanter sits in a different boat.

On Monday, APEC leaders were set to appreciate a procession of about 52 barges, with four main barges in the leading role. They are the Subanahongsa (Golden Hamsa) royal barge, which refers to the swan-like mythical steed of the Hindu god Brahma, which first appeared in Thailand during the Ayutthaya period. The current Subanahongsa was commissioned on November 13, 1911. It is the king's barge.

The Narayana royal barge, featuring the god Vishnu riding on a garuda (a half-man-half-bird mythological figure), was built during the reign of King Nang Klao (Rama III). Having been damaged during the World War II, the current barge was rebuilt and commissioned on May 9, 1996.

The Anekajatbhujonga royal barge stands out as being majestically plain. It bears no figurehead and it is the oldest of the present principal Royal Barges, having been commissioned by King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), who reigned from 1868-1910.

The Anantanagaraj royal barge is second in rank to the Subanahongsa. It has an intricate figurehead in the form of a seven-headed naga, a mythical serpent that is a symbol of water. It was commissioned on April 15, 1914, during the reign of King Vajiravudh (Rama VI).

Julio A Jeldres is a former senior private secretary to King Norodom Sihanouk of Cambodia and the king's official biographer.

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Oct 21, 2003

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